elements, the bar blog

Monks are wonderful people.  Aside from their many other contributions to society they’ve been good enough to support their monasteries for centuries by producing such excellent goods as wine, cheese, beers, and spirits for the rest of the world.  Chartreuse is made by Carthusian monks north of Grenoble, France; and has been for centuries.  With over 130 aromatics in it, it’s one of my favorite things in the world.

Somewhere around this time last year we had a private party for a local jewelry store showcasing watches from the esteemed watchmaker Panerai.  We had three special cocktails created just for that event; and I was so happy with one of those, the Luminor, that I added it to the cocktail list for the rest of the summer.  It works the less intense Yellow Chartreuse in with rye whiskey.

Well- summer is definitely back.  Luminors will ease the heat and quench the thirst it brings.

the Luminor

2 oz Rittenhouse Bottled-In-Bond rye, 3/4 oz Yellow Chartreuse, 1/2 oz ginger beer syrup, 1/2 oz elderflower syrup, 1/2 oz fresh lime juice, 3 dashes house bourbon/citrus bitters.  Shaken and strained onto a big chunk of ice, topped with 1 oz seltzer.   One of our regular guests, Steve, suggested the mint sprig for garnish.  Thanks for that, friend.  It works well.

Banks 5 Island Rum

Recently we brought in a rum that is brand-new to market.  Vegetal, peppery and very full-bodied; it’s a blend of aged rums from Jamaica, Trinidad, Guyana, Barbados and Indonesian Java.  That last island, Java, is known for their particular variant of rum known as Arrack.  A popular component of many punches well over a century ago, this special rum is known for the intensely aromatic pitch it can lend.  Utilizing only a bit at a time added just the right amount of depth to punch, and with that same knowledge in mind Banks crafted this rum so that it could stand apart from the crowd.  It is very unique, very tasty, and fun to play with.

I thought we’d start with something simple and refreshing.  It is very hot outside after all; and few things cool one down better than the classic Aviation.  Here’s ours made with Banks 5 Island rum instead of gin.

Aviation Variation

2 oz Banks 5 Island Rum, 1/2 oz Luxardo Maraschino, 1/2 oz fresh lemon, and just less than 1 tsp Rothman & Winter Creme de Violette.  Shaken well, strained and garnished with a twist of lemon.

Just got in this beautiful tequila from Don Julio.    It’s distilled only once per year, just before the rainy season starts.   10-12 year-old agaves, after distillation it is aged on average 30-36 months in used bourbon barrels.  I’ve heard that when Mexico recently created their newest designation of Extra Anejo (requiring a full 36 months of aging) Don Julio’s people approached him and asked if he wouldn’t mind adding those few extra days to 1942’s aging process so it would qualify and could get on the label.  His answer: Why?  Why should I care about your laws or what goes on the label.  1942 is my baby, and is perfect as it is.

Come in and check it out.

Tequila 75

This weekend brought two new cocktails to the list.  One to our classics page; one to the more seasonal recipes.  I’ll show the seasonal one first.

I visited the very excellent Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co. (as they say- a drinking establishment) in Philadelphia last week and enjoyed a number of cocktails.  One that really made me think had many components, including; but not only: tequila, citrus, sparkling wine and cinnamon.  What great friends they all seem to be!  Time to play.

We ended up with the Tequila 75.  Based on the classic French 75 mix of gin, lemon, sugar, and champagne; here we use 2 oz of blanco tequila from Chinaco, 1 oz of fresh lemon juice, and 3/4 oz of a syrup made with cinnamon from Sri Lanka, topped with a couple of ounces of dry Spanish cava.  It’s a beautifully sweet and floral cinnamon, and the syrup doesn’t overpower so the cocktail stays refreshingly drinkable in this summer heat.  The rim is of that same cinnamon, sugar and a touch of salt.  Very simple, very easy to tipple.

Next up is a cocktail using Boker’s bitters.  John Boker founded Boker’s Bitters in 1828 and they were very popular up until Prohibititon forced them out of business in the 1920s.  Recently barman Adam Elmegirab has begun reproducing them, and with a bottle in hand I reached for my 1887 reprint of ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas’s Bar-Tenders’s Guide or How to Mix All Kinds of Plain and Fancy Drinks.  I took his Improved Gin Cocktail recipe using Holland gin, played with the ratios a bit and ended up with our:

Improved Holland Gin Cocktail

A healthy dose of Boomsma Oude Genever, Luxardo Maraschino, Boker’s bitters, and gum syrup all get shaken and strained with some Mata Hari absinthe misted over the top.  Garnished with a twist of lemon.

A double entendre defined is essentially a term with two meanings, frequently with one being somewhat risqué.

That said; there’s few things in life less risqué than a good cocktail- or perhaps what one (or two) may lead to.

These days there are a number of serious bar programs across the country that avoid vodka.  Given the number of cosmos, appletinis and the like that the last decade or two have seen made it’s understandable that some bartenders may have gotten a little bored.  Branching out to other spirits is fun and necessary- but to avoid as a restaurant a popular spirit base in general is not only inhospitable (we are the hospitality industry, after all); it’s downright rude.

So with this drink I wanted to reach out to two different groups.  I first wanted to show my vodka drinking friends that there are other options than simply sweet or fruity out there that are very delicious.  At the same time I was hoping to entice my gin-drinkers to a vodka cocktail- to show them that complexity is not only possible but lush and rewarding with vodka.

With it’s beautiful, silky texture Double Cross vodka was a great start.  The company is somewhat locally based so that also makes you feel good.  An ounce and a half of that with three quarters of an ounce of white Lillet, a half ounce of Grand Marnier, a half ounce of Carpano Antica sweet vermouth with a touch of orange bitters (stirred well) and a flamed orange zest results in a classically-styled cocktail that I hope many will enjoy.  I know I do.

At the Manhattan Cocktail Classic last week I think that my favorite seminar I attended was one featuring all things agave.  It was hosted by Steve Olsen, of the company AKA Winegeek.  According to their website, they are a company “dedicated to the education and consultation of degustation for appreciation and celebration.”  That’s quite the situation.

From what I’ve learned Steve and his friends make a living by spreading knowledge and understanding of all things beverage.  When he speaks he has a passion and enthusiasm that are contagious, and are backed up by the wealth of information he retains.  And the guy loves his mezcal.

I was very proud of myself for thinking ahead and buying a voice recorder to make a copy of each seminar I took so that it could be easily recalled and revisited later on.  Unfortunately, it’s batteries are dead at the moment; so my memory will have to suffice.

Mezcal refers to pretty much any spirit made in Mexico from the roasted heart of the agave plant.  Tequila is a form of mezcal originally produced in the town Tequila in the state of Jalisco, and is now legally made in a DO (Denominacion de Origen) of five Mexican states.  It is made from a specific variety of agave (blue agave).  Other mezcals come from a different DO comprised of seven states and many types of agave.

Good tequila is a wonderful thing, but what has really been causing an uproar across the country is the emergence of high-end mezcals (especially Del Maguey).  Many people may remember mezcal in past decades as inexpensive hangover-inducing party shots.  Ron Cooper,  lead voice of Del Maguey, is trying to re-introduce the USA to what mezcal should be: a complex craft spirit that just begs to show off its terroir.

Ron Cooper talks mezcal.

Del Maguey produces a number of mezcals, each one named for the individual village in Oaxaca it represents; and each one delicious.  I just got their most recent product in for the restaurant- a blanco called Mezcal Vida.  As with all Del Maguey products it is 100% organic and 100%  agave, this one being from the agave Espadin.  I couldn’t wait to get it into a cocktail.

So here’s what I put together for the moment.  This one’s right up my alley.  It’s a strong drink for sure, and the smoke notes of the mezcal do fun things with the sherry and Chartreuse.

Oaxacan Monk

1 1/2 oz Mezcal Vida, 3/4 oz Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso sherry, 1/2 oz Yellow Chartreuse, 1/2 oz Cointreau.  Stirred and strained onto a big chunk of ice, garnished with a flamed lemon zest.

The Manhattan Cocktail Classic is coming up this friday.  I’m very excited.

bad photo, tasty drink

Even though I won’t be getting there until Sunday I figure it’s still appropriate to enjoy something delicious and historical as I anxiously anticipate the fun.  To me, this means a Martinez.  The 1887 Jerry Thomas ’s Bar-Tender’s Guide has this using Boker’s Bitters, which I don’t have (although Scotland’s Adam Elmegarib has resurrected the name and I can’t wait to try them); as well as different ratios of gin to vermouth (pretty much opposite).   Still, after experimenting with all sorts of different ratios and combinations; this is how I present my Martinez:

1 1/2 oz Hayman’s Old Tom, 1/2 oz Boomsma Oude Genever, 3/4 oz Dolin Rouge Vermouth, 1 tsp Luxardo Maraschino, 4 dasher’s house orange bitters and 1 dash Bittermens Xocolatl Mole bitters.

Rumor has it that the Hayman’s Old Tom (which I do love) is slightly different than the Old Toms the Martinez was first made with.  Apparently the earlier versions found in America had a little bit of oak aging to them, giving them some almost whiskey-like notes.  I like to add in a touch of the Boomsma to make the gin a bit more accurate (at time of photo a friend was looking at the bottle elsewhere, but it’s certainly in the mixing glass.)  Believe that or not, it still makes for a fantastic cocktail.  It’s one that encourages slow-sipping, and thought about the flavors opening in the mouth (that is until you realize you’ve drained the thing in moments).

This ought to get me through the next few nights.  Come sunday I’ll be learning new tricks at New York’s largest cocktail celebration, and I can almost taste it.  Or is that the Martinez again?

What an exciting night!  The beer dinner was a great success.  Thanks very much to everyone at Yards Brewing Co. and also to Eric Stoffa for the pictures.

After just under six weeks my orange bitters tasted ready for the next step.  Time for the straining, sweetening and diluting process.  Fine strain several ways; really work the dry parts to extract the most of their flavor.  Then make a caramel syrup.

Now the syrup is combined with the bitters, and more water is added to bring it down to a proper proof.  Orange bitters now ready for use behind the bar.

Last week we hosted a private party for a large group of people celebrating the conclusion of a five year business venture.  They asked me to come up with a couple of cocktails for the party- one fruit forward, white spirit-based and easy drinking; the other a bit more stiff and made from brown spirits.  In the end both came out quite refreshing and I’d be happy to sit out in the sun and welcome  spring with either of them.

Rhubarb Cooler

The Rhubarb Cooler uses Steinhager Gin.  This is German gin- legally it’s only flavoring agent can be juniper.  So in essence it’s more similar to a flavored vodka than what most people think of as gin.  Emilia hates gin; she likes this drink.  For the rhubarb component I made a syrup by cooking down several stalks of local rhubarb with sugar, water, a little vanilla and a dash of fresh squeezed pomegranite.  After straining I added some St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram and a few pinches of salt for a bit more depth and flavor.

The Rhubarb Cooler:

1 1/2 oz Steinhager, 1 oz spiced rhubarb syrup, 1/2 oz lime, 1/2 oz Chinaco blanco tequila, 1/4 elderflower syrup.  Shaken and strained into a collins glass with fresh ice and topped with 2 oz of seltzer.

Buzzed Bee Cocktail

The Buzzed Bee.  For this one I made a honey syrup with local wildflower honey and ginger.    60-40% water to honey as this wildflower stuff was pretty intense, and added a healthy dose of ginger and a green chile to steep.  It also uses Dolin Blanc Vermouth- a sweet, white vermouth in a style Dolin actually created known to some as a Bianco Vermouth.  To those who haven’t tried it yet: check it out, you’ll be glad you did.

Buzzed Bee:

1 1/2 oz Rittenhouse BIB rye, 3/4 oz ginger-honey syrup, 3/4 oz lemon, 1/2 oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth, and a big fat dash of Fee’s Old Fashion Bitters.  Shake it like you’re mad at it, then strain it into a collins glass with fresh ice.  I like mine garnished with some candied ginger.