elements, the bar blog

At the Manhattan Cocktail Classic last week I think that my favorite seminar I attended was one featuring all things agave.  It was hosted by Steve Olsen, of the company AKA Winegeek.  According to their website, they are a company “dedicated to the education and consultation of degustation for appreciation and celebration.”  That’s quite the situation.

From what I’ve learned Steve and his friends make a living by spreading knowledge and understanding of all things beverage.  When he speaks he has a passion and enthusiasm that are contagious, and are backed up by the wealth of information he retains.  And the guy loves his mezcal.

I was very proud of myself for thinking ahead and buying a voice recorder to make a copy of each seminar I took so that it could be easily recalled and revisited later on.  Unfortunately, it’s batteries are dead at the moment; so my memory will have to suffice.

Mezcal refers to pretty much any spirit made in Mexico from the roasted heart of the agave plant.  Tequila is a form of mezcal originally produced in the town Tequila in the state of Jalisco, and is now legally made in a DO (Denominacion de Origen) of five Mexican states.  It is made from a specific variety of agave (blue agave).  Other mezcals come from a different DO comprised of seven states and many types of agave.

Good tequila is a wonderful thing, but what has really been causing an uproar across the country is the emergence of high-end mezcals (especially Del Maguey).  Many people may remember mezcal in past decades as inexpensive hangover-inducing party shots.  Ron Cooper,  lead voice of Del Maguey, is trying to re-introduce the USA to what mezcal should be: a complex craft spirit that just begs to show off its terroir.

Ron Cooper talks mezcal.

Del Maguey produces a number of mezcals, each one named for the individual village in Oaxaca it represents; and each one delicious.  I just received their most recent product in for the restaurant- a blanco called Mezcal Vida.  As with all Del Maguey products it is 100% organic and 100%  agave, this one being from the agave Espadin.  I couldn’t wait to get it into a cocktail.

So here’s what I put together for the moment.  This one’s right up my alley.  It’s a strong drink for sure, and the smoke notes of the mezcal do fun things with the sherry and Chartreuse.

Oaxacan Monk

1 1/2 oz Mezcal Vida, 3/4 oz Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso sherry, 1/2 oz Yellow Chartreuse, 1/2 oz Cointreau.  Stirred and strained onto a big chunk of ice, garnished with a flamed lemon zest.

The Manhattan Cocktail Classic is coming up this friday.  I’m very excited.

bad photo, tasty drink

Even though I won’t be getting there until Sunday I figure it’s still appropriate to enjoy something delicious and historical as I anxiously anticipate the fun.  To me, this means a Martinez.  The 1887 Jerry Thomas ’s Bar-Tender’s Guide has this using Boker’s Bitters, which I don’t have (although Scotland’s Adam Elmegarib has resurrected the name and I can’t wait to try them); as well as different ratios of gin to vermouth (pretty much opposite).   Still, after experimenting with all sorts of different ratios and combinations; this is how I present my Martinez:

1 1/2 oz Hayman’s Old Tom, 1/2 oz Boomsma Oude Genever, 3/4 oz Dolin Rouge Vermouth, 1 tsp Luxardo Maraschino, 4 dasher’s house orange bitters and 1 dash Bittermens Xocolatl Mole bitters.

Rumor has it that the Hayman’s Old Tom (which I do love) is slightly different than the Old Toms the Martinez was first made with.  Apparently the earlier versions found in America had a little bit of oak aging to them, giving them some almost whiskey-like notes.  I like to add in a touch of the Boomsma to make the gin a bit more accurate (at time of photo a friend was looking at the bottle elsewhere, but it’s certainly in the mixing glass.)  Believe that or not, it still makes for a fantastic cocktail.  It’s one that encourages slow-sipping, and thought about the flavors opening in the mouth (that is until you realize you’ve drained the thing in moments).

This ought to get me through the next few nights.  Come sunday I’ll be learning new tricks at New York’s largest cocktail celebration, and I can almost taste it.  Or is that the Martinez again?

What an exciting night!  The beer dinner was a great success.  Thanks very much to everyone at Yards Brewing Co. and also to Eric Stoffa for the pictures.